Yukon Bound Part 4 - July 16-25

July 16 (Mon):

Before I departed Watson Lake I’d mentioned the inside passage ferry to Mike.  He strongly recommended getting a reservation.  He further noted that it was not a very straightforward process and that the local Tourist Information office had helped others in the past – just down by the Signpost Forest.  Boy, while they were nice they certainly weren’t all that helpful.  Using their wifi, and after several tries I eventually figured it out and sent a reservation request (yes, request, as you can’t make actual reservations for the inside passage).  This caused much worry and anxiety over the next two days, not truly knowing if I was getting on the Wed 18^th ferry.

A sense of dread and uncertainty hung with me for over a week, beginning after Eagle Plains and not ending until around the time I dropped my Multistrada off in Tacoma.  My own little psychological rain cloud, along with the physical reminders of dry forks, a broken clutch lever, bashed in saddlebag and a trashed chain to keep me in a funk.  The mud still packed into my radiator fins would not be an issue at these cooler temps and as long as I kept moving (at least the 1000km worry over a patched rear tire was addressed before leaving Whitehorse).  Normally accepting of and prepared for the unknown, and not minding days on the road by myself, this was a different sensation of foreboding throughout an ongoing trial that couldn’t end soon enough.  This was not the way to ride or enjoy being out on a travelling adventure.

OK - now down the 37, Stewart-Cassiar hwy.  Only 725km of scrub, forest and nothingness to the 16 hwy!  1000 km in all to Prince Rupert.  It was, thankfully, a fairly uneventful ride except cold and wet as usual, as well as several construction stops where slowing following the pilot truck was required.  Some gravel sections but the asphalt got better and better as I rode south. A few brown bears along the side of the road.  Many peaks to the west and south, but most shrouded in clouds and rain.  

Another day wishing that the ride afforded more scenery (that I knew was out there, just not visible at this time!).  Still, I took an opportunity here and there to smile just because I could and just because I was out here doing this ride anyway.  Passed through Jade City (passing up as I did the free coffee offer) and then through Dease Lake where I’d originally planned to stay had I skipped Watson Lake.  Tatogga is a small but nice fishing lodge, not quite as remote as one might expect. Quirky older gent running things, but quite nice; and young teen born in the area doing odd jobs; mid-aged cook of few words behind the grill. Great pork chop with brown butter mushroom gravy (mash potatoes were essentially crumbled potatoes).  

A group of Australian men were travelling around Canada; a grandfather from the area north was accompanied by three of his grandsons.  Decent newly built rooms (similar to the portables erected at highschool), albeit with zero decoration yet.  Left my dirty boots outside; checked forks again; cold in the room but ok.  Watched some tv and called it a day.

July 17 (Tues):

Essentially two straight days of this view, down the Cassiar

The last 425km south to Kitwanga was a strange but beautiful ride.  It was still cold, wet and cloudy, and several stretches of the Cassiar were on gravel, but the long, forested sections footing the mountain ranges provided some scenic viewing.  Few other vehicles were seen; you got that ‘last person on earth’ feeling.  I mostly rode hours by myself, staring down long straight grey roads, looking for bears in every ditch and behind every tree. 

At least 3 riders went down that day on a steel grate bridge just north of Bob Quinn. One BMW rider (whom I saw) ended up on stretcher, his downed bike moved to the shoulder by his riding partners (no idea where the EMTs came from or how long they took to get there).  It was CRAZY slippery in the wet (I know that I only avoided crashing myself due to a hastily shouted warning by a lady on the near side of the bridge just as I was about to cross).  I crossed the river in first gear with my feet out – which I never do – and felt my tires slide several times.  After that, despite the asphalt being damp, I wicked it up a bit and passed some slow riders who were tippy-toeing around corners.  I spoke with a few riders (and the tippy-toers) at the next gas stop south about the bridge, and we all agreed that none of us expected it to be so slippery (both of them had fallen over at slow speed).  

At Kitwanga, I stopped for gas and a snack (Slim Jim, pastry and Starbuck’s drink) and a break and to assess my route and plan.  I spoke about the ferry with lady riding a BMW who grew up in southern BC.  About that time I got an email - my ferry reservation turned into a wait list.  This was literally a crossroads.  As it is a 250km asphalt cul-de-sac into Prince Rupert, it could be a 500km mistake to go west vs turning east towards Prince George and bailing on the ferry route altogether. But, I had already been planning to arrive early and talk my way on – and bikes generally fit.  I took my chances.

Another few hours west through several small towns and past huge logging operations to the ocean (inside passage) and into Prince Rupert.  I stopped at the terminal upon arrival, before checking into my nearby hotel. Desk agent said to pass the line as early as possible in the am to speak with loading super who would know the size and number of vehicles booked that passage.

Good meal at Olive restaurant in hotel. Glass of merlot with haddock & chips (first fries in 8 days after having fries in the first several meals). Early to bed and set 3 alarms after checking the fork seals again and repacking all my bags.   Also double-checked that no one could accidentally box in my motorcycle in the am when it would be impossible to find a way to get it out….. indeed, I ran that nightmare scenario over in my head a few times.  Along with the one about my bike being locked into the gated parking structure at 4am with no one around to help.

July 18 (wed):

Day 16 from Montana. Woke 4:15am, bike packed and clear to leave, at ferry terminal b4 4:45. Cool morning; lobby doors opened at 5. Got a ticket within 30 seconds of opening the front door! Bikes boarded first, prior to 6am; only 8 of them on this sailing - score. Settled in on board quickly, having had my pick of comfy leather seats.  Later found that while the hold was full, the passenger count was not high, so anyone’s pick of seats essentially ran the duration of the sailing.

Helen (Scotland) and Huup (Dutch) seated behind me. Nodded off 45 min and did not notice we had set sail. Comfy leather recliner. Inside passage truly is bound btn mainland and islands the entire cruise except the last few hrs b4 Port Hardy. Few hours in saw whale (small humpback). Bbq on deck. Choices of brat, salmon or chicken. I got the last brat with sauerkraut and a Kokanee – some were left disappointed (I considered offering it for sale for sale for $20).  Just beautiful sitting outside with water, rocks and trees going by.  An hour stop at Klemtu where I got a weak cell signal and exchanged some text messages.  Covering so many miles with no effort was such a welcome change from the last 2 weeks.  Read books, watched movies, smiled at the simple luxury of it all, and remarked at the significance of the change in pace, surroundings and mood.

Cold and dry burger on board; no cheese curd left, so only poutine gravy on my poutine, making it simply fries and gravy. Excellent Brown Ale from Wheelhouse in Prince Rupert.  Went back and tipped the kitchen lady $5 (I asked ‘do you have any place to put this’?  she replied ‘yes, I do’ ‘you have a wonderful evening, now’).  Late into the evening we approached Port Hardy and I had to grab my gear and prepare to retrieve my bike.  It was weird disembarking into a very black night, only taillights visible in front of me – most heading to a motel somewhere in town.  I found my pre-booked lodgings easily enough and a lady to check me into a room.  Once again, nice to stop and get some sleep as it was past midnight by now….

July 19 (thurs): Port Hardy down to Comox 

Woke at 6 hrs then slept another 1.5 - 2.  Text from Paul to do a Campbell River run from Comox this aft. Got to check forks and clean chain again. Packed up and rode bike over to breakfast at Market cafe and then 3 hrs down the 19.  Shortly out of Port Hardy I spotted a light tan sedan on the gravel shoulder, a flat tire visible and its driver hovering over an open trunk.  I pulled over to see if I could help (a John Watson, if I recall correctly?), and we just couldn't budge the lug nuts.  We were in a sparsely populated area that had no nearby cell towers.  I rode with his CAA card back towards Port Hardy about 15km before a few bars appeared and called the service to come help him out. 

Hit Comox around 1:30.  Took Paul's Audi up to Campbell River to get him to a lawyer appointment back in Courtney. Duo ride Multis down to Shawnigan Lake, arriving 8:30pm.  Christine put me up in the loft bedroom.  Samuel was in the basement.  Her friend was around for a visit.  And finally my bike can rest for a few days.  

Or not so fast. Up Fri July 20 for the short trip to Langford Ducati dealer to get clutch lever and guard that Paul ordered the week before – installed in about an hour.   Felt good to return something to ‘normal’; very happy that the saddlebag had held up so well and that I had enough of a nub left of the clutch lever to make it 1500 miles.  Later over to Walmart for a fryer and sauce (strapped to the back of the Multi) - wing night tonight!!  4 batches, and they came out perfectly.  Some boneless variety as well (egg and breading breast pieces prior to frying). Benjamin down for some tubing with caregiver Bran.  Got some laundry done.

Sat (21) to Rona for building materials to construct a dock ladder. Paul's design. Took roughly 6 hours total over 2 days and works well; looks pro too. 

Sun (22) hike to Kinsol trestle. 5km over 1.5 hr.  short drive of Christine’s new Porsche Macan.  Back to cottage to finish dock ladder.

Mon (23), more quiet paddles and some water skiing. Rymer and Ella came down – good visit.

Tues (24) – Paul’s bday.  Bicycle 60 minutes around Shawnigan Lake.  Benjamin came down with Jamie for lunch.  Time on the boat towing tubers and skiiers.  Paul liked his Ducati belt. 

Scott, Sean, Tasmin

Family made it over from Cobble Hill for a few hours.  Visiting Danish family came down – Peter, Geeta, Hanibal, Carolina.  Swam around island with Christine and Peter.  Rode Multi’s up to Cowichan for 90 minutes.  Really getting hot this day. Packed for return home tomorrow.

Wed (25) – up at 7, on road at 7:45. Only 30 min to Patricia’s (She forgot!!). Harvey was out for run, but I got a quick cup of coffee and a muffin in the meantime.  He returned in time to hear my Moose Jaw story and promise his Moose Jaw story (crashed in a Canadian military jet while in rear seat).  Met neighbors.  Some pics.  Needed gas but had to skip it for Port Angeles as I was almost too late for ferry departure.  But given a reservation and assurances from Harvey that I had plenty of time to get there, I wasn’t too worried.  Apparently I was supposed to be at the terminal at least an hour before departure and go through customs.  It was now about 20 min before departure – they were not pleased with me.  They reluctantly let me on through a side gate and I queued up for customs stamp. 

Ferry didn’t have wifi (or wifi I paid for) though was still close enough to land to access a signal and check that the Tacoma warehouse was expecting me.  A call to the shipping agent proved that no, they weren’t since somehow they didn’t confirm it as I hadn’t paid it yet.  That’s not good.  She was able to email a copy of the paperwork to me and I figured out a way to electronically sign it and send it back on my cell phone before the ferry was too far from a signal on land.  Geez, that would have sucked bad.

More customs interrogation at Port Angeles.  Lots of gas stations, and a quick fill (in US$ for first time in 3 weeks).  Temps climbing but still nice.  Ride down 104, 3 and 16 to the 5 fwy was good despite some clogged and slow traffic – kept a close eye on the GPS to ensure the correct route to Tacoma.  At the 5 junction traffic slowed again and was barely moving, while I’m only a few miles from the shipping terminal – virtually in sight of it.  Temps continued soared into the 90’s then the 100’s while my bike temp displayed 244F! To get some air flowing through the radiator, I had to lane split for a mile past stopped traffic, and then finally turned up exit 134.  

 It was a super quick and easy drop-off followed by a short Uber drive into SeaTac (though the driver drove past me two times before figuring out where the lot was).  United flight was on time at 4:55pm. Allowed plenty of time for a soft drink and an apple Danish - weird! 

Please remind me never to buy a diet Mountain Dew again.  Arrived at SFO, and feeling like I’d better eat something more substantial; chicken sandwich at McDonald’s was actually pretty good.  On-time departure, then landed in SAN at 10pm.  Home by 11pm.  What a day – extremely well choreographed, and all lined up perfectly.  One problem anywhere and the entire day and plan would have gone to hell.

Odometer ended at 36,376 miles, or 5,300 miles (8500 km) travelled on this trip over 92 hours (run time) – during 15 riding days.  Avg 530km/day and just over 6hr/day.