Friday, January 27, 2012

Father and Son Roadtrip (part 1)

August, 1996 - a 2500 mile road trip

"What the heck is he doing?" I fumed under my helmet as I watched the curved windscreen on my dad's Honda 750 fade further behind me again, outside the prescribed 'safe zone'.  Our vague interpretation of perfect formation riding was being compromised and, as a result, our potential vulnerability increasing.  His periodic and unpredictable variations in speed had us passing and re-passing the same vehicles while others were free to pull into the accordion space oscillating between us.  In the days before helmet-to-helmet communicators became common, hand signals and gestures were the primary method of communication while under way.  For hours now I had, amongst other things, signaled and gestured my wing-man, Kevin, into maintaining a staggered lane position one-car length on my flank.  His failure to do so not only defied my experienced admonitions, but threatened to expose us to every evil cager's brainless whim.

This section of Route 9 in VT/NH was not particularly busy given the time of day, but group riding protocol demanded strict adherence to certain time-honored norms; or so was my hard-wired and well-intentioned attitude.  In the name of The Motorcycle Safety Gods, thou shalt follow thy leader's lead!

I was the alpha son to my father's alpha male. There had not been a motorcycle in his family or ours before I came along, but after years of schoolboy pestering I was finally rewarded with a 1971 Honda Mini Trail.  I cut my biker teeth on this little 50 and took my share of lumps in earning the privilege.  This was followed by a succession of larger capacity dirt bikes and increasing skill, risk and boldness. The rules were full gear and never ride alone, to which I complied all but one time (uh, I think).  These rules didn't prevent a few scrapes, broken bones or broken hardware - but learning things the hard way is truly my gig.  I would later get my street license without permission at 17 on friend Rob's Honda CB350; I didn't wheelie through an intersection, so I think that helped.  Look out asphalt jungle, you ain't seen the likes of this ape yet!

It was many years and many bikes before I became aware that my dad had always denied himself the experience and thrill of motorcycle ownership.  And so when I found myself trading the V-4 grunt of a Sabre 750 for the inline-4 scream of a CBR1000F, I gave him the 750. He and my sister both took an MSF course together, although someone had to do it twice.  Fit, but not particularly coordinated or athletic, he dropped a bike on his foot and broke a toe. But he made up for it with determination and, uh, superior analytical thinking.  How my sister came to get her first bike, a Seca 650, is another story.

Kevin and Sean in Hamilton, Ontario; pre-departure (Aug, 1996)
Heading out on the highway - sans heavy metal thunder (Aug, 1996)

Once he had enough miles of street experience I suggested that we take a week long trip together, from Hamilton, Ont to Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where he was born. Roughly a 2500mi round trip, in a loop through four northern US states to the ferry at Portland, ME then overnight to Yarmouth, NS. Our return route would take us northwest along the Trans Canada highway and past Lake Ontario through Toronto.  He never said so, but I'm sure the prospect was both exciting and terrifying to him - maybe as much due to the  switch in alpha roles as to his relative motorcycle road-trip inexperience. I must admit, unfortunately, to becoming a little intoxicated with my new role and found myself chewing him out a few times for making noob mistakes (all in the name of protocol and safety of course). He took a few verbal lashes during those first few days before re-setting the dynamic as only a father can. During another gas stop where I again recited a litany of errors and transgressions, I got a return earful that would shut the both of us up for at least the following two.

Father and Son Roadtrip (part 2)

August, 1996 - a 2500 mile road trip

Perfect timing - our rubber band pace saw us at the Portland dock with an ample boarding window.  While most of the passengers settled in for a long night at the Blackjack tables, Kevin and I made for some dinner and our tiny berth.  The noisy ferry accommodations and early bell afforded a less than fitful night's sleep despite 2 days of road weariness.  Typical of ferry passages upon motorcycle, however, front-of-the-line privileges meant first off and traffic-free roads to start the new day.  Free to stretch a piston or two at last - free of the confined berth and perhaps each other too.  Dad needed no encouragement to follow my lead in whacking open the throttle for an impetuous, high-speed blast.  The wrinkled corners of his eyes gave away a satisfied grin I hadn't seen in a while.  Making quick progress despite a few stops, we were in Halifax at Alan and Marie's house before long. Sheppard family hospitality was a very welcome break as we took the rest of the day to relax and catch up with Alan, Donny and Ross.

Smooth, Canadian asphaltic concrete and Glace Bay would beacon early the following morning; it is not a short ride, but we felt so close to the goal now.  We would spend a few days with Kevin's sister Clare McNeil; meet up with Lenny Stevenson for a tour of his home, and snorkel at the Big Reef in Dominion.  Jimmy Tompkins pulled his Gold Wing out of hibernation to join us for a loop of the Cabot Trail, although I found it hard to maintain the necessary tame pace on such incredible swaths of asphalt.  Good thing there's always tomorrow; and a chance to enjoy the beautiful scenery today...!

Sean and Kevin in Dominion on the Big Reef (photo Lenny Stevenson, 1996)

More time with family, and enjoying a solo loop of the Cabot Trail soon gave way to our inevitable return leg.  Reminded again of just how expansive this NA continent is, we found ourselves still in New Brunswick by the first night.  A recalcitrant mounting bracket on the Sabre's windscreen finally gave way somewhere between a gas stop and our hotel for the night.  It thus spent the remainder of our trip bungee'd to the passenger seat of my CBR while Kevin spent the remainder of our trip leaning into the headwind.

One day later put us deep into Quebec, and just northeast of Montreal.  The miles, scenery, gas and food stops are now a blur.  I think we both, however, had plenty of bonding and sharing by this time, while noting that my wife (then girlfriend) was a little over 150 miles away in the direction tomorrow's route would take us.  Hastily, yet discreetly, made plans saw me back on the CBR to surprise her with an unplanned visit to the family cottage on Rideau Lake.  For the next 3 hours I raced myself and my guilt beneath dark skies, through some of Ontario's blackest country roads.  At one point, nearly plowing through a 90 degree jog on an otherwise dead straight section, reminded me of the thin lines I so often drew; and how fatigue and foolishness could conspire to end this endeavor in tears.  The short cottage reunion gave way to a few pangs of guilt at having left Kevin to ride alone to our 10am meeting spot in Kingston the following morning.  I found him there at the McDonald's, in one piece and not too additionally disappointed in his son - at least to any degree he cared to make evident at the time.  We would be back once again in Hamilton, our week-long journey over, roughly 4 hours later.

We had never spent so much time together before, and never would again. The roads were epic, the weather perfect and the satisfaction of arriving home safely after a shared adventure was immeasurable. I was also very proud of his accomplishment.

Kevin is gone now, after enjoying retirement, grandchildren and another 7 years of adventure and travel.  I would leave Canada for good less than two weeks later.  This ride remains a highlight amongst all the road trips I've ridden since, despite several personal failings and a few regrets.  A superior attitude and superior experience does not a superior person make.   This and the stewing time between gas stops meant for a highly disproportionate and undeserved violation/response ratio.  It would rarely ever be raised again, but I know that he was glad to have the opportunity to prove something to himself and that we did this ride together.