Perfect timing - our rubber band pace saw us at the Portland dock with an ample boarding window. While most of the passengers settled in for a long night at the Blackjack tables, Kevin and I made for some dinner and our tiny berth. The noisy ferry accommodations and early bell afforded a less than fitful night's sleep despite 2 days of road weariness. Typical of ferry passages upon motorcycle, however, front-of-the-line privileges meant first off and traffic-free roads to start the new day. Free to stretch a piston or two at last - free of the confined berth and perhaps each other too. Dad needed no encouragement to follow my lead in whacking open the throttle for an impetuous, high-speed blast. The wrinkled corners of his eyes gave away a satisfied grin I hadn't seen in a while. Making quick progress despite a few stops, we were in Halifax at Alan and Marie's house before long. Sheppard family hospitality was a very welcome break as we took the rest of the day to relax and catch up with Alan, Donny and Ross.
Smooth, Canadian asphaltic concrete and Glace Bay would beacon early the following morning; it is not a short ride, but we felt so close to the goal now. We would spend a few days with Kevin's sister Clare McNeil; meet up with Lenny Stevenson for a tour of his home, and snorkel at the Big Reef in Dominion. Jimmy Tompkins pulled his Gold Wing out of hibernation to join us for a loop of the Cabot Trail, although I found it hard to maintain the necessary tame pace on such incredible swaths of asphalt. Good thing there's always tomorrow; and a chance to enjoy the beautiful scenery today...!
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| Sean and Kevin in Dominion on the Big Reef (photo Lenny Stevenson, 1996) |
More time with family, and enjoying a solo loop of the Cabot Trail soon gave way to our inevitable return leg. Reminded again of just how expansive this NA continent is, we found ourselves still in New Brunswick by the first night. A recalcitrant mounting bracket on the Sabre's windscreen finally gave way somewhere between a gas stop and our hotel for the night. It thus spent the remainder of our trip bungee'd to the passenger seat of my CBR while Kevin spent the remainder of our trip leaning into the headwind.
One day later put us deep into Quebec, and just northeast of Montreal. The miles, scenery, gas and food stops are now a blur. I think we both, however, had plenty of bonding and sharing by this time, while noting that my wife (then girlfriend) was a little over 150 miles away in the direction tomorrow's route would take us. Hastily, yet discreetly, made plans saw me back on the CBR to surprise her with an unplanned visit to the family cottage on Rideau Lake. For the next 3 hours I raced myself and my guilt beneath dark skies, through some of Ontario's blackest country roads. At one point, nearly plowing through a 90 degree jog on an otherwise dead straight section, reminded me of the thin lines I so often drew; and how fatigue and foolishness could conspire to end this endeavor in tears. The short cottage reunion gave way to a few pangs of guilt at having left Kevin to ride alone to our 10am meeting spot in Kingston the following morning. I found him there at the McDonald's, in one piece and not too additionally disappointed in his son - at least to any degree he cared to make evident at the time. We would be back once again in Hamilton, our week-long journey over, roughly 4 hours later.
We had never spent so much time together before, and never would again. The roads were epic, the weather perfect and the satisfaction of arriving home safely after a shared adventure was immeasurable. I was also very proud of his accomplishment.
Kevin is gone now, after enjoying retirement, grandchildren and another 7 years of adventure and travel. I would leave Canada for good less than two weeks later. This ride remains a highlight amongst all the road trips I've ridden since, despite several personal failings and a few regrets. A superior attitude and superior experience does not a superior person make. This and the stewing time between gas stops meant for a highly disproportionate and undeserved violation/response ratio. It would rarely ever be raised again, but I know that he was glad to have the opportunity to prove something to himself and that we did this ride together.
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