The peak, and our salvation, took close to 20 minutes to reach, and not before a final challenge, far more mental than physical. Hadn’t we already endured enough of both? Was the crux not yet passed? The top of Lily Rock can be described as having two rounded towers or peaks, and as such, our route led us up the northern one. A four foot gap above 75 feet of thin air separated us from the southern descent we sought. The gap itself was not as daunting as the price of a miscalculation; the landing on the other side, at a 35-40 degree angle, required precise and deliberate aim. There was no choice and no time. With some hesitation I set my focus on a shallow foot placement on the opposite side and leaped. Stepping then several feet above this successful toehold, I made room for Peter, who remained in a crouched stance, contemplating his turn. Make or break in the true sense; while our minds were long-since given over to this reality, such final commitment could still be slow in coming. He jumped………
Less than a minute later we both crested the peak and could finally identify the ‘safe’ path from this point, down a steep talus slope towards the west. This moment called for a victory photo using the self-timer, as well as a change of shoes (and, fortunately, nothing else which required changing), while the quickly fading light dictated haste.
| Peter and Sean atop Tahquitz peak, Nov 2003 |
Nervous tension now gave way to elevated spirits, which continued to increase with each gravity-aided step. The day was rapidly closing in on us now, but at least there would be no headlines or explanations required for anyone but our wives. Our only means of contacting them, however, was still 15-20 minutes away where we’d stowed excess gear back at lunch rock.
In a brief, capping moment to our adventure, we came across the only two other climbers on the rock that day while descending around and past the southwest face. Our short exchange of late-day pleasantries brought hearty and sincere congratulations on our accomplishment from the duo (huh? but it was only the 5.3-4 rated Trough*!). While I still harbored some regrets at the course the day had taken and the unfair challenge forced on a new climber, this was unexpected and thoroughly appreciated.
The mobile phone signal available at lunch rock was strong, and Peter’s wife was soon on the other end of the line. Utterly unconcerned, the two had just returned from their own days’ adventure and were eager tell us all about the miles, the altitude, the blisters, and begin our evenings’ plans. A toast would soon be celebrated. And what a peaceful, thankful and welcome thing it would be.
* It was later apparent that I had inadvertently strayed off 'The Trough' route as early as the second pitch, leading about a pitch and a half of surface rated from 5.7 to 5.9.
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